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The top B&B near Pezenas and Beziers in the Languedoc, France

Le Couvent, Roujan

6 rue de l'eglise, 34320, Roujan, France

00 33 467 24 64 37

Consistently voted the best B&B in the area by Tripadvisor's independent travellers.

 

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Chateau Malaudos

A vineyard near Pezenas in the Languedoc, south France. Abandoned for four years, this is the story of its regeneration.

Tag >> Wine

We've taken you through all our trials and tribulations over the last year, right up to a couple of weeks ago when our tiny quantity of wine had a stuck fermentation. But the addition of lees from Hans' finished wine kick-started ours, and within less than two weeks our malolactic fermentation was completed. We received the long-awaited -mail from the oenologue, then we had to take in a second sample for verification. My heart was racing as I opened her e-mail a day later. Confirmed. Hooray!

Now we had to take the wine off the lees, and add a tiny amount of sulfite to stop the wine oxidising. At this point we had the first taste of the finished wine. We'd been fully expecting cooking wine, and had prepared a cookery book of red wine recipes to go with it, but to our great surprise the wine actually tastes good.

 


 

I like it - enough to have a second and third glass. And to look forward to drinking it. After all we've gone through over the last year I can hardly believe it.

Anyway, enough boasting. Ali and I spent a day and a half manually filling and labelling a very limited edition of 364 bottles.

 

 
 

 

Of course we're using the wonderful Zorks instead of cork for the closures, and I can reveal the full set of labels.

 

 
 
 

 

364 bottles of very drinkable wine rescued from a hail-filled tornado. We're thrilled to bits.


Stuck fermentation

Posted by: LizzieBG in Wine-makingWine on

LizzieBG

You'll remember that we have made some wine from what remained after last year's tornado and hail storm the night before the harvest. The wine has been sitting in a tank in my brother's cave since last September, happily going through its alcoholic fermentation, then resolutely refusing to finish the malolactic fermentation.

We had the wine tested by the oenologue about five times during the past few weeks and it just hasn't budged.  It can't be bottled until it's finished and we're losing patience. Malolactic fermentation (malo) is a process used to reduce acid in wine where malic acid (like apples) is altered by natural means to softer-tasting lactic (like milk) acid. It happens thanks to the presence of lactobacteria, but in our case, as neither the cave nor the cuve have been used for winemaking for years, there just aren't any of the little bacteria-blighters about.

So yesterday we went of to our pal Hans to beg some lees - the bacteria-rich gloop left in the bottom of the tank when the fermentation is over. One of his wines had just finished its malo so we're trusting that the lees will kick off our recalcitrant wine.

 

 

 

We had a tussle with the floating cuve lid (le chapeau flottant) which had stuck firmly to the sides of the tank. It has a thing like a bicycle tube around the outside which holds the lid in place when inflated. So, having prised it free, we just swapped the lid for one from another tank and swilled down the dodgy one before we buy a new tube.

 


 

My niece Poppy came to lend a hand. She's not vaguely interested in wine-making but likes to be useful and clamber about above the tanks.

 


 

Meanwhile all of us got the blue hands of red winemakers.

 


 

Now we just have our fingers crossed that the wine is bubbling away with its new bacteria. The temperature is around 30-34 degrees centigrade here at the moment so it shouldn't take too long. I'm guessing we'll need to re-test in a couple of weeks. We'll keep you posted.


A mazet in the heat

Posted by: LizzieBG in WineWeatherVinesMazet on

LizzieBG

The temperatures at Chateau Malaudos are stifling at the moment. The vines aren't at their best either, having taken the most awful battering during last September's hail-filled tornado. I think they look weakened and they really have very little fruit hanging. We've also suffered a bit from oidium thanks to hot and wet weather during the Spring. So we're sort of cutting our losses this year. It's likely we'll have precious few grapes to take to the Cave Co-operative; we'll just keep the best and make our own wine.

 

As for last year's meagre drop of wine, it's still trying to complete its malolactic fermentation. The wine is pretty high alcohol and the cave also hadn't been used for wine-making for years, so the necessary bacteria just aren't there. We're waiting to see our proper wine-making friends tonight to ask them what to do next.

 

 

Meanwhile the mazet looks pretty much like the building in this lovely painting by Julian Merrow-Smith . The postcard sized artwork is currently up for auction. Have a llok back through his archives - there's some wonderful work.


How to make a barrique

Posted by: LizzieBG in Wine-makingWine on

LizzieBG

Here's a good, speedy introduction to the fantastic art of barrel-making. Bear in mind that they're over 700 euros each and only take 225 litres when you swig that next glass of oak-aged red. Though beware, if the wine label says 'oaked' that could mean the winemaker has just dipped a large teabag full of oak chips in it. Another thing entirely.

 


Well, the vineyard survived the second onslaught of hail yesterday.  The tender buds are still intact and the nascent grapes and apples get another chance at life.  What a relief. 

We met our lovely new friends, Deborah and Peter Core up at Chateau Malaudos today for a spot of lunch.  They make beautiful biodynamic wine in Caux at their vineyard, Mas Gabriel .   This year they made their first white and rose wines, both of which are absolute crackers - we can't recommend them highly enough.  And you can buy them online if you like!   We sat in full sunshine talking wine, and scoffed gorgeous cheese, pate and tomatoes washed down by a bottle of their spectacular pink.  
 
 


On Wednesday the paysagiste Michel Reboul turned up with his team to dig up the vines at the top of the amphitheatre.  This is the steepest part of our land and has always been a bit of a nightmare.  The only time we took the quad up there Lizzie had to hang off the uphill side of it like a windsurfer to stop it toppling down the hill.  (Please don't try this at home!) Many of the Cinsault vines there died when the vineyard was more or less abandoned and the rest have struggled ever since so it feels as if we've cleared out a dusty attic now they're gone.   

After two days of rain the soil was pretty damp and in perfect condition for pulling up vines apparently.    They were about 50 years old I guess and, like icebergs, most of the plant lives below the surface - some of the root systems went on for metres. 

 

 

The lovely Christophe was the artist behind the digger-levers which he manipulated like a master puppeteer, and his even lovelier assistant was our very own Josh who worked like a Trojan all day long lugging heavy vines up and down the hill and building them into a souche wall. 

 

 

We reckon there's enough firewood there to see us through next winter.

 



When they finished that they set to work filling in the road by the mazet parcelle, shoving a huge rock under Olive's foot and digging over the grassy bit near the reservoir which Lizzie wants to turn into a lawn.  The two of them got through the most incredible amount of work that day, "happy work" Josh called it.  He was pleased as punch to be working on his land and it was fantastic to see him in his professional role as apprentice landscape gardener.

 

 



The countryside is in full bloom right now, carpeted with irises, spring flowers and, here and there, tender shoots of wild asparagus.  It's so fine it's quite difficult to spot but it's worth the effort, the succulent tips taste like the freshest peas straight from the pod.  There are two sure-fire ways of finding it.  One is to suck up to any old boy you see clutching a bulging carrier bag and the other is to dog the footsteps of Kit who has become the world's greatest living Asparagus-Hound.  Quick as a flash she spots her quarry and before you can say "Ooh, wouldn't that be lovely roasted with some olive oil and rock salt" she's bitten off the tip, scoffed the lot and tuned her asparagus radar to a new bearing.  We're wondering if she might transfer this skill to truffle-hunting though holding her back after she'd got a taste for the "black gold" is a daunting, and expensive, notion.   

 

 



Meanwhile, here's a little something for Marianne.  Yes, sweetheart your spuds are on the move and lookin' good. As you can see, everything in the garden is just lovely.  

 

 


 


We've come full circle. This time last year we had yet to finalise buying the land and  vines, but the then owner, M. Gineste,  let us start the pruning. Today I began again, but this time I have much more idea about how the vines actually grow, and how the pruning affects the end result.

So today I began making next year's wine. For the care taken now whilst pruning will do more to more to influence the final product than anything else we do during the course of the year. If we get it right now we have a chance of having strong healthy vines on which will grow heavy bunches of concentrated fruit. Get it wrong and we will have straggly weak vines producing hundreds of tiny bunches of, primarily, skin.

To be frank, last year we really didn't know what we were doing at all, but this time, after a year of watching the vines like hawks, we have a much better idea. So now we plan to do things differently. We've decided which vines we want to keep and which will go. Some are very weak, and others are on such a sharp slope that we haven't a chance of looking after them properly. So those will be grubbed up when we've found someone who can help us with the task. That should leave us with around 5000 grenache, syrah, cinsault, carignan and muscat petit grain.

This is a tiny number of vines by any normal standard, but we have a B&B to run all summer so our time is limited then. However, in winter we have lots of time to concentrate on all the physical work like pruning and land-clearing. We also have lots of volunteers coming in February to help us with some interesting projects in the vineyards, so it'd be great if we could get all the pruning done by then.

At the moment they look like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and we need them to be as tidy as this:

 



But they go on way beyond where you can see in this photo - and that doesn't include the other 2500 in the amphitheatre.

 



I had a wonderful time in the sunshine today, pruning, picking up the offcuts (les sarments) and burning them, then brushcutting between the vines to finish the job. That's just two rows, but it's a start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you're in the area and fancy helping just give us a call on 04 67 24 64 37

The wild boar (les sangliers) are still up to their tricks. There are long and deep areas where the sangliers have ploughed up the ground. We're just praying they're not doing too much damage.

 

 


We are thrilled to bits to announce that we are the very first vineyard in France to use a new type of wine bottle closure called the ZORK. Here's a picture of our bottles with ZORK recyclable plastic closures.

 

ZORK is a revolutionary wine closure with the convenience of screw cap and the pop of a cork. There are 15 billion wines bottled each year. Around 10% of wines bottled with cork are spoiled by the failure of the closure. ZORK is an alternative wine closure that has been developed in Australia to solve the global problems of cork taint and random oxidation.

 

 

 

Here's a demo.

You need to a flashplayer enabled browser to view this YouTube video

 


Learn to blend wines

Posted by: LizzieBG in Wine-makingWine on

LizzieBG

Some while ago Ali, Justin & I spent the most fantastic day learning to blend wine - and creating our own bottle to take home.

 

 

 

Several of you asked if there would be other opportunities to do it - well here are the upcoming dates:

Sunday 30 November 2008
Saturday 28 February 2009
Saturday 2 May 2009
Sunday 26 July 2009
Saturday 17 October 2009

If you would like to come to any of the assemblage days do contact Hans & Christa at Domaine Bourdic.

I promise it will be one of the most memorable and enjoyable days of your life.

 


Cellar palate

Posted by: LizzieBG in Wine-makingWine on

LizzieBG

During the summer we met Tim Manning , maker of some absolutely delicious wines at Il Borghetto in Tuscany. He was one of those guests we felt we should be paying, so helpful were the discussions over various bottles of local Languedoc wines.

As new winemakers we are learning all the time, and a new concept for us was that of 'cellar palate' introduced to us by Tim. Basically this means that your palate gets used to a set of wine flavours that centre on the wines that you drink all the time. For us that's wines from about a 20km radius from Le Couvent . Tim encouraged us to taste as many wines as possible to avoid cellar palate. I take his point.

Then yesterday, while ambling along at the Ballade Vigneron , I was discussing wine with long-time local resident Peter Stone. He told me about Coteaux-du-Langedoc , centred at Domaine Saporta in Montpellier where they showcase around 400 wines from this region. His trick is to tell the extremely knowledgeable Frederique, the caviste,  that he wants to spend an average of say 10 euros a bottle on 48 bottles. That allows for some quaffing wine and some extravagances. However, his main criterion is that the wine must be interesting and pushing some boundaries. Not the same old, same old. I was very excited by this notion and I reckon it's a good way to head off cellar palate at the pass. Once we've got the hang we'll explore further.

As for our own wine, we tasted it again yesterday. It's just one month old, so is a bit rough around the edges. But it reminds me of one of those films where you know the ugly boy with spots, greasy hair and  specs is going to be the handsome hunk that gets the girl by the end. Either I have relentless optimism, or our pals are all lying to us - a distinct possibility. On being offered a quick tasting each pal has looked sceptical. Unspoken thought "how am I going to tell her this tastes like udder-wash?". Nanoseconds later the eyebrows rise, a smile flashes, unspoken thought "phew". "Bloody 'ell, that's not at all bad. I'm astounded"

So are we.